As far as we are concerned, this has to be the best of our National Park experiences so far. Better than Litchfield, better than Kakadu, better than Boodjamulla, better than anything else we have seen on our travels. How Karijini in particular was unknown to us (and many others we talk to) amazes us.
This does come with another comment, it is also by far the most dangerous park we have ever visited. This includes those in rather safety unconscious New Zealand. Getting the best out of it truly needs fitness, agility, strength and a level of fear management.
Talking to the Ranger at the top of Kalamina Gorge confirmed this. It is a dangerous place to visit without the right preparations.
Millstream Chichester
We stopped at the Millstream part of Millstream Chichester on our way towards Karijini. It is certainly a road less travelled with the campground almost vacant. Nobody else we talked to stayed there (or planned to) and that is a mistake. It is worth the stop.
It’s broken into two parts Millstream and Chichester. The camping and most attractions are in the Millstream section with Python Pool in the Chichester section. We had just the one night to explore both parts. We wished we had two. The campground was great, with large, relatively private sites spread out. The lack of people made it feel like you were on your own. We also got to see our first dingos there.
We decided to visit Python Pool as it was in the recommendations of so many guides and must do brochures. The walks that started there would have been too hot and didn’t appeal. Getting to python pool though was not nice. The road hadn’t been graded in three years. Abby drove in and it was a new experience for her. Slow and bumpy. It was almost 45mins to travel the dirt road in. She was well and truly over it.
Her happiness didn’t improve when we arrived at the pool. It was not that attractive compared to our experiences so far. It was also close to stagnant as it was so late into the dry season. The rest of us had a very cautious swim before we headed home, a little disappointed. Later, a Ranger told us he only recommends Python Pool to people who both hate their sanity and their vehicle.
Lucky once we were back on the Millstream side, the park more than redeemed itself. Our time spent exploring the Homestead and Deep Reach Pool more than made up for the experience at Python. Deep Reach had deep, crystal clear waters and would have been lovely for a kayak. Christian and the kids enjoyed a swim. We could have spent another day relaxing and enjoying ourselves there.
Karijini
Like we said, Karijini is the best National Park of the trip so far. It was a variety of different Gorges and Pools, most of which needed some pretty challenging walks and or swims to fully appreciate. We did our best and managed to see everything we wanted. It wasn’t easy but it sure was worth it.
Hamersley
Hamersley Gorge is slightly away from the rest of Karijini National Park, sitting on its own. To save on the driving we made a trip on our way in from Millstream Chichester. It was an interesting detour. The fastest route was by a combination of public and private roads. Christian did the test and got the permission and authorisation to drive Rio Tinto’s Rail Access Corridor. It saved a lot of time, even if it meant over 100km of roughish dirt. The highlight of this route is seeing the iron ore trains up close. They say they can be up to 2km long. It certainly felt like it as they rumbled past.
Hamersley Gorge is split into two parts, the insta-famous spa pool and the less famous but more beautiful gorge section. We did them both and in doing so got our first introduction to a Class 5 walking trail.
Heading down the rocky steps wasn’t too hard. To reach the Spa Pool you needed to traverse a steep, smooth rock face up a series of small waterfalls. The easiest way was to combine hugging the cliffside with some grippy shoes. Once you reach the end of that walk, it’s a careful entry to the water before you swim to the spa pool. We decided jumping in was easier than navigating the slippery rocks. Then wait your turn (the spa pool is popular) and clamber up the waterslide like entry to the Spa Pool. Even we had to admit, this pool was cool. A private little follow formed by 1000s of years of water flow. We enjoyed it, but it wasn’t the highlight.
The swim down the gorge in the opposite direction was more our style of thing. We went as far as we reasonably could, before exhaustion and hypothermia were a risk. Seeing a gorge section entirely form the water was a first. We wished we’d bought the wet suits and bodyboards to explore further. A lesson for the future perhaps.
Dales
Dales Gorge was the second and probably easiest of the gorges we did in Karijini. It was right next to the lovely Dales Campground where we were staying for our first two nights. We decided to walk both the Gorge Rim, taking you along the top of the gorges before you head down into the gorge to go back the way you came. We felt it was certainly worth doing it this way, the view from the gorge rim was very different to the gorge floor.
On our way into the gorge we came across some duelling goannas. The pair of them seemingly locked into a violent stalemate. We stood back and watched the battle for a few minutes. It was obvious there would be no winner soon so we moved on, giving them as wide a berth as possible on a narrow rock staircase.
Blue asbestos was also visible in the walks and rocks around the gorge. Not surprising given the proximity to Wittenoom. We looked carefully to see this deadly fibre in its raw form.
The highlight of Dales Gorge though is the last (or perhaps first) section; Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool. These two very swimmable waterholes are vastly different but both fun and stunning to look at.
Fortescue Falls
Fortescue Falls is a terraced waterfall with a swimming hole at the base, which feeds the creek which meanders down the gorge. We swam here first, mistakenly thinking it was Fern Pool. Although slippery to get in and with a bit of algae to dodge, it was still a nice swim. You need to swim out to get the best view of the falls, but it’s an easy swim.
Fern Pool
Fern Pool though is of course the main event. A short walk further on from Fortescue Falls, it comes complete with a decked viewing platform and waterfall. It is a sacred women’s site to the aboriginal people and there are a few rules to be followed as a result. The rules are nothing onerous and even add to the experience and it makes this special place quieter (even if it’s busy) and you can admire the falls and the view. It was a fitting entrée to the rest of the park.
Kalamina
Kalamina was an accidental experience for us. We didn’t think we’d get there but were very glad we did. Kalamina Gorge is almost halfway between the Dales and Weano sides of the National Park. The road to get there is so rough even the Rangers are not big fans. The Ranger we met there visited as infrequently as possible!
It was far less popular than the other walks and that added to our enjoyment. As was the theme for Karijini, it had a steep climb in to access the gorge floor. Kalamina was a shorter walk to the end than some of the others. It also had you zig zagging across the water and hugging the gorge walls. It was definitely a different walk to the others.
We got much more out of the gorge swimming if we had noodles for the girls. So, in addition to the rest of our gear we lugged a couple of pool noodles. On this swim it definitely paid off, as a long, cold swim took you further down the gorge. You could climb out and continue a little further, although we were limited by the hot ground on our bare feet. Hardier souls (or soles) could certainly have gone further to see more.
Knox
It was time to really get stuck in and start the really difficult (and spectacular) hikes. Knox Gorge was the first of our really difficult hikes and also our first hike on the Weano side. With another steep and slippery entrance we took our time in the early section.
The most difficult part though was the cliff hanging climb around one of the bends. Our photos don’t do it justice. It was more difficult (I swear) than they make it look. Abby took the lead followed by the little monkey Hannah. These two are certainly the better climbers, as Laura and Christian were far slower and more considered. We all made it though and it was really the toughest section of this walk.
Knox wasn’t really a swimming gorge, as the water didn’t flow much during the dry season. Things had gone rather stagnant. We weren’t worried though. There was a clearer, cleaner looking pool just to the right of where you entered the gorge floor. We decided to pass this one up, a decision reinforced after Abby’s eagle eyes spotted a Brown Snake warming itself on the rocks on that (unofficial) path.
Hancock Gorge and Kermit’s Pool
This walk was the toughest. It didn’t have the obvious fear factor of Handrail Pool, but that was easier than sections of Hancock Gorge. It was where we first started using the swike term. In Hancock Gorge walk, swim, walk, swim was the only way to reach the end. The problem being after the swim you are wet. Once wet (particularly your feet) it’s slippery. Very slippery.
After the first swim, you navigate the Spider Walk. A very narrow section of gorge, with vertical slides, a curved bottom and a constant flow of water under foot. It was a careful balancing act to reach the end. A slip meant at best some bruises (physical and ego) but could easily be much worse.
The first swim also took you to the Amphitheatre, a natural rock formation that (unsurprisingly) taking the shape of an amphitheatre. Its not the least bit difficult to see where the name came from. Kermits Pool was the end of the road. A semi-covered pool, which was almost cave. The walk ends on the other side of Kermits Pool at a rocky a beach. This is the end of the walk, but you can see further ahead and the gorge continues down and around.
For all its difficulty it was rewarding. Kermits Pool was certainly worth the effort, the amphitheatre was spectacular. The sense of achievement having made it in and out safely was the best thing. It was tough and required huge amounts of concentration. We were all proud to have done it and Abby and Christian were particularly proud of the girls for making it through when plenty of others had not.
Handrail Pool
Handrail Pool is probably the most famous (especially amongst the Insta-famous) gorge in the whole park. We were looking forward to it more as part of the challenge than the photo opportunity. After a cold morning swim in Kermit’s Pool we decided to take the long way into Handrail Pool, completing the Upper Weano walk before starting the Handrail Pool trail.
Doing it this way added a little bit of distance to our walk, but certainly added some warmth to our bodies. We had conflicting information about doing this extra part of the trail, but we would recommend it. It was more of a bush walk style, with the focus on the scenery, plants and animals. It was a nice change when compared to the rest of the walks we had been doing. You could actually enjoy the walk without fear of imminent injury.
The way into Handrail Pool was challenging (as expected) but the real challenge came when we reached the namesake. The Handrail. At this point, you are required to walk through a narrow section of gorge before reaching the final platform. From this point it is a matter of turning backwards to follow the handrail carefully and slowly downwards into the pool. There are a few steps available, and you climb these, with two hands on the rail downwards several metres to the ground.
The pool itself is surprisingly round, with a further section of gorge leading further onwards. This was to only part of the entire park we were not confident the girls could complete. After we all swam, Abby and Christian left the girls behind and explored deeper. It was colder, deeper and darker than anything we’d done, but it eventually opened up into the end of the trail. The gorge did continue onwards, but travelling further was forbidden.
Weano Gorge
Weano was our final walk to be completed. We had visited the lookout and viewing platform that look over it twice for sunsets. As far as Karijini goes it was a little easier. Instead of steep slopes and uneven rock staircases, they had installed a series of ladders giving access to the gorge floor.
The walk to this point took you across the top of the waterfall and around the gorge lip. Early in this trip we saw another dingo. This one seemed larger and watched us intently. It was quite happy to watch us from a ledge as we made our way around.
This final gorge gave us one of our more entertaining walks. Simple enough getting in but it did require a water crossing to get from one side to the other and into the waterfall pool. It was of course not flowing but there was water left.
It turned out there was far more water than we expected. Not expecting a swike (or even water above our knees); we’d gone down in clothes and water shoes, not togs. Watching the girls try and cross as the water got deeper and deeper, progressively approaching their shorts. They fluked a less deep path on the way in. The way out lead to water above the waist as they didn’t quite find the shallowest point to return. A combination of laughing and concern at their predicament was entertaining to watch. With plenty of clothes available in the van it didn’t really matter.
There is no way we can convey how awe inspiring this place was for us with our words. Given our relatively basic photography ability our photos don’t help much either. If you could visit a National Park this should be the one to choose. Do it while you are fit, healthy and flexible to get the most out of it. Spend a few days to take it all in. You won’t ever regret it.