We’d learnt during our time in New Zealand that we really are coastal people. After not seeing the coastline since early September, hitting the west coast was a welcome change. We’d stopped for a night in Derby, but it’s not exactly a seaside haven.
Broome
Pulling into Broome, knowing some of its most famous attractions were its beautiful beaches made it and the Peninsular feel like a bit of a holiday while on holiday. We also made the decision to stop here for at least a fortnight. It would be the longest time in one place since we’d left Mackay in late-July. We really were in holiday mode.
Cable Beach, but not the camels
Without a doubt, Broome is most famous for its beautiful Cable Beach. Watching the sunset from the beach is like a rite of passage for visitors. We did more sunsets on that beach that we would have done anywhere else since childhood. Seeing the sunset over the ocean is a rarity for us east coasters and each one was different.
We spent most of our time though in the water. Cable Beach didn’t have the big rips and gutters we’d experienced on the Gold Coast. It still had but swell and waves big enough for the bodyboards and even a body surf. Each day meant usually over an hour in the water and by the time we departed, both girls were proficient bodyboarders and keen to try body surfing. That is a work in progress.
Cable Beach and the camels do go hand in hand. We saw them many afternoons, trains of colourfully garbed camels being lead up Cable Beach. We checked prices and it was too steep for us. To be honest, your ride was spoilt by the hundreds of 4WDs you would be sharing the beach with. The tranquillity of the camels on the beach would probably have been lost.
We also had no desire to take the MU-X on the beach. Watching the traffic jam as they all tried to thread the rocks at the entry and exit was just comical. They then parked up close together, staking their claim to a small section of the beach to watch the sunset before re-joining the traffic jam to get back off the beach.
Pearls
Broome is famous for its pearls. The whole place was built upon the industry and it continues to be a source of income in the town. There are tours, boat cruises and many, many shops catering to tourists to share the pearling experience. The history of the pearling industry is well told both in places like the museum, as part of the tours or even in some of the pearl jewellers. This history is interesting, if not dangerous. The conditions under which the early divers toiled (involuntarily in some cases) were perilous.
We did a small, shore based tour at Cygnet Bay. It was really enjoyable and gave us everything we needed. An added bonus was Laura being asked to remove the pearl from the demonstration oyster. We said it in an earlier post too, but the experience of Broome, seeing the industry and the exquisite jewellery that results gave us a new appreciation for this particular gem. We even found a few pieces we’d love to acquire, but a voluntary lack of employment hinders such purchases.
Staircase to the Moon
The concept of a staircase to the moon was foreign to us when we first arrived. But after understanding the event, we were very lucky to have arrived in town at just the right time to see one.
With the moon rising over the mud flats a low tide, the moonlight reflects of the mud and sand to give the impression of a staircase of light leading from the ground to the moon. Many of these natural wonders seem to take more than a little bit of imagination to see, but this one is nice and obvious.
Broome goes all out for these rare events. Visitors and locals alike flock to see the staircase and the first night it’s visible comes complete with markets and small festival-like atmosphere. We visited twice and each night we were far from alone. As moonrise got later, the colours changed as the sunset colours influenced the sky. If you are fortunate enough to witness a staircase to the moon, go twice. You won’t regret it.
One thing we learned was that taking a photo that captures the full beauty of the phenomenon is beyond our skills and abilities. Between us we took more than 20 rather average photos. None of which come close to what we saw with our eyes. Eventually we gave up, and just enjoyed it. If we really want, we will buy a professional shot later.
The experience did leave us wondering though. Given the popularity of these events on the west coast, surely there is a location in Queensland where the same staircase effect can be viewed.
Assortment of the rest
During our time we also ticked off a few other tourist items. We searched for dinosaur footprints in the rock by the ocean. We were unsuccessful, traversing the whole area for no success until we were shown two solitary footprints. They were big and clear, but the consolation was the sheer beauty of the coastline we were searching.
We also caught a kids movie at Sun Pictures. Famous for being the worlds oldest garden picture theatres. The movie (Paws of Fury: Legend of Hank) should never be described as a cinematic masterpiece, but the kids got a laugh. The reason to go was the theatre itself though; with canvas slung seats, outdoors, under the stars and with over 100 years of history.
One final highlight though was visiting the wrecks of the Catalina Flying Boats. The planes themselves were interesting, but we took just as much excitement from the wildlife we saw as we trekked our way through the mud. We saw turtle, star fish, fish, shellfish, crabs and other creatures we cannot even identify. The tourist information is vague on how to get there, but it turns out it’s all the directions you need. Walk straight off the end of the jetty at a very low tide and sure enough the outlines of the wrecks will emerge as you approach. Good to know given how quickly the tide rises and how high it can get.
Peninsular
The Peninsular is unique in a few ways. It is home to some of the modern-day pearling enterprises and is the gateway to some of the other aquatic attractions (horizontal falls etc.). It is also Aboriginal land, with closed and semi-closed communities all along the peninsula. Fortunately many of these communities offer accommodation, access for visitors, tours, cultural experiences and more. We paid visits to three of them, One Arm Point, Lombadina and Beagle Bay. All were welcoming, and willing to share their special places with us. Both One Arm Point and Lombadina had two of the best beaches we’ve ever seen, with white sand, crystal clear water and none of the crowds those kinds of places usually draw. A trip to the peninsular is really a must if you are in Broome, even if it’s only a day-trip.
We spent nearly three weeks seeing Broome and the Dampier Peninsular. A slower pace combined with some very fortuitous timing meant we were able to experience everything the region had to offer.
By the end of our time, we were happy to be moving on. Both Abby and Christian had itchy feet. Almost three weeks in this place was time well spent, but it was time to get back to the road and continue our journey south.