Kakadu, what else to say. It is just as special as we thought it would be. We said don’t compare Litchfield and Kakadu and our experience reinforces this. They are so different.
Kakadu is a hive of options, with everything available from walks, swims, challenging drives, boat trips, bird watching and cultural experiences. We tried to cram as many into our five days as we could. We have learned though that it is not possible to do everything.
Waterfalls
Kakadu has its share of beautiful waterfalls, although as we visited so late in the dry season not all were flowing. We visited two of the more popular falls; Jim Jim and Maguk. There were still others available, but they were either closed (Gunlom) or reaching them was beyond our driving skills.
Jim Jim Falls is spectacular, it’s an incredibly tall single drop fall at the end of a gorge. It would be breathtaking when in full flow. The drive in can be a challenge, with (yet more) corrugations, sections of single track, low creeks, mud and soft sand. The walk in isn’t easy, with some boulder scrambling and rock hopping needed. The girls loved this element, leaving their poor Dad behind. It’s incredibly beautiful though, a tropical oasis in the harsh dry Kakadu environment. You follow the creek through dense greenery, past reflective pools. There are even two options for a swim, the main pool or a sanded area just downstream.
Maguk is a little easier to reach than Jim Jim. It’s an easier drive although there is still some unsealed sections and is an easier walk to the falls. Plus, it flows all year round. Maguk cascades down the rock face, with several distinct drops before reaching the pool below. It is also possible (although we didn’t do it) to access the top of the falls and look down onto the falls and pool below.
Both are worth the visit and are unique in their own ways.
Indigenous Culture
Kakadu National Park is actually owned by the traditional owners. It’s leased back for use as a National Park and jointly managed with government. Sadly, recent decisions by government have failed to uphold the spirit of this unique relationship and the relationship is strained. Some attractions closed and there are disputes over the management of fire and staffing numbers. It would be good to see the relationship restored as the influence of the traditional owners feels strong in the park and it adds a very positive dimension to the experience. Many of the free tours are led by indigenous rangers and the businesses are indigenous owned. This models allows a connection to country while making a living.
We have never been able to view so many indigenous rock arts sites as we did in Kakadu. We got our first taste of rock art in Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill). The amount of art in Kakadu, its quality, accessibility, preservation and the events and stories depicted here are something else.
We visited the three main rock art sites (Ubirr, Nanguluwurr and Burrungkuy). Visiting them all allows you to see different styles, scenes, messages and periods. Ubirr felt more like a family history or daily life, with many hand paintings, scenes of hunting and animals. Nanguluwurr (which requires a 3km walk to access) depicted more events and is the home of the painting of a European sailing ship. Burrungkuy was different again and the drawcard was the stories and mimi. This site felt the most spiritual as an outsider.
For an even deeper experience, permission can be gained to enter Arnhem Land. In Arnhem Land there are cultural tours, rock art sites and indigenous hospitality are available.
Wildlife
Kakadu is not without its wildlife and given it is home to three significant wetlands, the bird life is prolific. We are by no means twitchers but can certainly appreciate the unique habitat and abundance of birdlife provided by wetlands. One of the wetlands is RAMSAR listed due to its significance, and it is well worth the effort (and the heat) to take the long walk around. The section of lake where the wild rice grows attracts so many different bird varieties you can watch for ages.
We were fortunate enough to also spot some wild buffalo, a small olive python, native fish, lizards and more. We were amazed what we saw once we took our time to really look.
Landscape
One thing you cannot miss in Kakadu is the landscape. We drove many, many kilometres of sealed roads through Kakadu savannah country before seemingly out of nowhere amazing rock formations would appear. Towering red and orange rock faces, sheer cliffs, unique rock formations, gorges and waterfalls are all there to be seen. These changes from the savannah are breathtaking.
There are also rivers (including the famous Cahills Crossing) and the savannah itself should not be forgotten.
In our whole time in Kakadu, we were never short of something to admire and experience. It’s an amazing place that will give visitors something to remember, whether you stay a day or two or a week.