Litchfield National Park is another big-ticket Northern Territory item. It’s full of waterfalls, waterholes, termite mounds and other natural wonders. People try to compare Litchfield and Kakadu. Don’t because you can’t, they are two totally different places. If you take that attitude, you will love Litchfield as much as we did.
We had booked three nights just out of Litchfield. The desire for air-conditioning was stronger than the desire to stay in the park. We had wondered if three nights would be enough. It turns out given the fire in the park, it was. Without the fire, a fourth night would have been required.
Smoke and Fire
There was a bush fire burning while we visited. It had started two weeks prior and was slowly and fortunately not ferociously burning its way around the park. The fire was low, cool and slow, not a hazard to life, but certainly generated some smoke. It meant that sites would be closed, then re-open as the fire passed by. We missed just one thing due to the fire – The Lost City and if it had been open, we would likely have been one day short in our stay.
Getting there is half the fun
One thing we have learned so far is many of the best natural attractions are off the beaten track. It means dirt roads, corrugations and in some cases water crossings. We are by no means mad-keen 4WDers, but will take the rougher road if it means seeing and doing something amazing.
In Litchfield this meant the Lost City, Central Valley, Blyth Homestead and Tjaynera Falls (Sandy Creek) were only accessible by high clearance 4WD. Lost City and Central Valley remained closed due to the fire while we were there. We were disappointed to miss the Lost City, but more than made up for it with Tjaynera Falls (Sandy Creek).
Getting there was a mission and took us out of our comfort zone. No damage was done and we were rewarded with what we thought was the best of all sights in Litchfield. A tough walk along Sandy Creek was more than worth the absolute magnificent Tjaynera Falls. Stunning. Best of all, the early start, rough roads and hair-raising water crossing meant we didn’t need to share this spot with anyone.
Water, water everywhere
Each of our days in Litchfield was an early start, with an itinerary built around beating the heat, walks and the reward of a waterfall swim. None of us had really been swimming in waterholes before. We aren’t sure why, but we had been missing out.
Litchfield is full of waterfalls, waterholes, pools, creeks and swimming spots. Not all places are swimmable as crocodiles and sacred indigenous sites rule a small number out. As we visited later in the dry season, low water meant other attractions were skipped as well.
We visited all the falls except the Cascades and Surprise Falls. They are all so different and each was a different experience. Where we could we made the effort to see them from all angles. We walked the tracks to the top, watched the falls tumble from the base and swam where we could. Often the most breathtaking view was from either the very top or right in the middle of the water at the bottom. Floating and seeing the sheers cliffs around you, while the water cascades down is something to be done.
Eco builders
You cannot visit Litchfield without noticing the termite mounds. They are epic, their height and width is incredible. Termite Mounds line the roads, are seen from the paths and are built across the floodplains. They seem resilient to the extremes of climate and play a very important role in the ecosystem.
The Cathedral Termite mounds are by far the largest and most beautiful and when you see them it’s easy to understand where they get their name. The Magnetic Termite mounds are smaller, duller, only present on the floodplains but perfectly aligned North-South. The mounds are a feat of engineering for creatures so small.
Just go
Litchfield always felt like the poor cousin to Kakadu in the Northern Territory. It’s less well known, is less developed and doesn’t have some of the cultural aspects that make Kakadu so special. This combination made it special for us. With less expectation, less people and a focus almost purely on the natural environment we were amazed and in awe of the place.